There are five growing conditions that are requirements for mold growth. Altering or removing one or more of these conditions best obtains effective elimination and prevention. These conditions are:

The bottom line is this, upon discovering you have water problem in your home or business, the dry out process should begin immediately. Under normal conditions, mold growth can become evident after only 48 hours. Not only can this increase the claims cost, but can also have adverse health effects on the occupants.

How will you communicate and prioritize what needs to happen once a disaster has already occurred? This can be a life or death scenario, which should garner our respect and attention in where we live, work, and play. In today’s business environment a basic plan, which is rehearsed and understood by all parties ahead of the storm, can be worth thousands – if not millions – of disaster recovery dollars.

Make it a priority to plan and respond with the following priorities for your disaster plan.

1. Develop a disaster planning team to handle mission critical business activities, functions, staffing and manage supply needs for various emergency response scenarios. The team should be committed to employee safety and minimizing business interruption.
2. Implement a crisis communication plan with a multi-layered system to communicate with all involved employees and their families, emergency personnel, senior management, and local authorities both fast and efficient.
3. Clearly define organizational policies for leave and sick time. Expectations should be established for salaried employees in the event they or their families are affected by a disaster and cannot report to work.
4. Cross train all critical personnel to insure best response for employees who are not available during an emergency.
5. Think locally. Establish a link with local vendors, business partners, and authorities to review evacuation procedures and how those will be communicated across all levels in an emergency situation. These should vary by scenario.
6. Think regionally. Develop plan to hire primary and secondary responders to help you get back on your feet quickly in the event of a major catastrophic event. Contingency agreements which guarantee response time, resources and pricing can be invaluable.
7. Be prepared to work remotely. Insure your ability to work off-site and communication capabilities across all channels to ensure business continuity.
8. Everyone should rehearse and practice drill with their companies and families. This will help to ensure that everyone understands what to expect in the event of an actual emergency.
9. Educate and share your knowledge with others in your industry, insurance carrier, and local private and public companies in your community.

Disaster Planning and Priority Response is everyone’s responsibility. Step up the challenge and share best practices across industries to continually update and rehearse your plan. Finally, be sure to train staff, family, and loved ones to execute your disaster plan during an actual emergency which will save lives, communities, and money.

In most cases damage to your home caused by wind is covered by your insurance policy. Please see your carrier for specific coverage questions, but let’s explore what damage can look like. Keep in mind, wind speeds in excess of 45 mph can damage homes, shed’s and garages.

Common signs of damage are:

• Missing Shingles – Many times are visible from the ground
• Lifted Shingles – Can be visible from the ground but a closer look may be needed
  • Extension ladders may be needed to get access to your roof. Shingles have a seal at the end of the tab which helps it adhere to the lower shingle tab. If winds lift the shingle the seal can be compensated
• Cracked shingles tabs from lifting
• Missing siding
• Loose siding
• Missing Fascia
• Loose Fascia

If you are missing shingles, and or siding, you don’t need to be a rocket scientist to determine if your home is damaged. Other effects can be less noticeable and may require a closer look. Loose shingles and or loose siding can out your home at higher risk from weather related damage, and can lead to more damage the next time a swift breeze comes. If you are not able, or can’t inspect your home properly, you should seek professional help. Good contractors can help you by determining what damage, if any; your home has suffered due to wind damage. Roofing and siding are meant to protect the inside from weather outside, but if any of these are compromised, you could experience interior damage.

Because you cannot visibly see if paint has lead in it or not, the only way to be sure if lead is present is to have it professionally tested. Because home test kits are less than reliable, you will not know the dangers you may be exposed too. The only positive way to find out if you or someone you know has been exposed to lead is through a blood test. Poisoning from lead may cause stomach pains, fatigue, mood swings, kidney damage, seizers, reproductive issues, coma, and in extreme cases death.

If buying a home built before 1978, there are a few things you should keep in mind. Anyone selling a home, must disclose in writing any known information about lead paint in the home, and must share any test results of any lead tests performed. Contracts are to give potential buyers up to ten days to check for lead, and while not required by the buyer they must be given the opportunity. Any home buyer must be given a copy of the EPA publication “Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home.”

If renovating a home built before 1978, you should hire a company to test for lead and then someone qualified to remove it if found. In 2008, the EPA issued the Renovation, Repair and Painting Rule which states firms performing renovation, repair and painting projects in homes before 1978, must be certified by the EPA. If the project is small enough, and you would prefer to do the work yourself, remember to use proper PPE of gloves, goggles, and a respirator with special lead (HEPA) filters. Make sure to properly clean and sanitize the area when completed.

Doing a little investigation, and knowing whom to talk to, will help keep – or remove – lead exposure from your home. To learn more, visit the EPA’s webpage on Lead.

The indoor air can be influenced by many things in the environment. The quality of the air is primarily impacted by four kinds of issues. The list includes airborne particles such as pollen and pet dander, mold, bacteria, and chemicals known as volatile organic compounds. Poor ventilation and the release of contaminants from different sources inside and outside the home can affect the air quality. Also, high temperatures and humidity can aggregate the problem causing contaminates to multiply.

Here are specific signs that air duct cleaning may be needed:

• Dusty environment
• Black lines or debris around the registers or diffusers
• Awake feeling congested
• Burning smell when the furnace kicks on
• Musty odors
• Allergies flaring up

Any of the above signs point towards needing air duct cleaning. If ignored the air quality will only get worse, and the exposure can have negative health implications. Long term exposure could be detrimental or cause chronic health issues. Excessive Coughing, sore throats, wheezing, sneezing, watery eyes, fatigue, dizziness, difficulty breathing, and headaches may be the effects of poor air quality. In some cases, the air quality can even cause or increase upper respiratory congestion, rhinitis, nasal congestion, nose bleeds, asthma, or lung disease.

The first step in improving and avoiding these health effects is air duct cleaning. Utilizing a firm that is NADCA (National Air Duct Cleaners Association) Certified is ideal. The cost of cleaning the air ducts does not compare to the investment to protect your family from bad air. A HEPA rated air filter can also improve the air after the cleaning is completed.

At first, water migrates from the source horizontally in all directions. Given time, water penetrates over, under, and through the bottom plates of the walls. Eventually if not contained or removed, the water flows into the adjoining rooms. Saturation occurs as gravity pulls moisture deeper into structural flooring materials.

As wood and other hygroscopic materials readily take up and absorb moisture, they become saturated and begin to swell. Furniture, hardwood floors, and even plywood underlayment can warp, buckle, and/or delaminate. The longer everything remains wet will directly impact the chances of irreversible damage done by the water.

As standing water evaporates, the humidity can increase beyond 60%. This abnormal humidity will begin to affect books, pictures, paintings and other hygroscopic materials, causing secondary damage. The water may “wick” up vertically affecting the drywall, insulation, and framing. Draperies and upholstery can also develop water rings as water comes into contact with these materials and begins to “wick” up the fabric.

In time, fungi and bacteria spores can germinate and multiply in organic materials. As fungi damage continues, the indoor air quality degrades rapidly. Bacteria, fungi, and viruses become hyperactive in this moist environment. Beyond any possible damage, health risks can arise if not addressed or handled appropriately.

Fast response normally prevents water damage from moving through all 5 stages. You must always have a great sense of urgency and respond quickly when dealing with water damage. In all situations, the underlying cause of water accumulation must be rectified. If not corrected, mold growth will re-occur even after drying. It is imperative that water infiltration is corrected as quickly as possible after the onset of damage.

• Mold Growth
• Paint peel and Stain Damage
• Wet or Dry rot on window sills
• Window damage around sash
• Staining of carpets or damaged hardwood floors
• Drywall damage

First let’s explore the cause of condensation; the why part of how condensation occurs. Excess humidity manifests itself in the form of condensation around the coldest area of a wall, such as in the area near windows. The warmer the air, the more moisture it will retain, and so when air in your building comes in contact with the colder glass surface, it is subsequently cooled and moisture is released in the form of condensation on the glass.

Air contains water vapor in varying quantities, with the capacity related to the temperature – warm air holds more moisture than cold air. When moist air comes into contact with either colder air or a colder surface a dew point is reached, and the air is unable to retain the same amount of moisture releasing water in the air or on the surface.

Can you reduce the condensation on my windows? The short answer: yes. In order to reduce condensation, humidity must be controlled and air movement must be generated. As the exterior temperature drops, the humidity level needs to decrease if the condensation is to be controlled. Indoor humidity levels should be maintained between 30% – 50% at a temperature of 75 degrees.

Increase ventilation in areas which produce humidity like bathrooms, laundry rooms, and kitchens. Be sure to properly vent the air outside the structure, and not into another space such as an attic. Dehumidifiers may be needed in basements or areas in a building with a large water source like an aquarium or large fish tank. Humidifiers can create problems, whether it is attached to the furnace or installed in a room, so be careful not to overuse or exceed the humidity range.

Well, if a broken water pipe is the culprit, you need to first turn off the water source and call a repair service. Did your sump pump fail? Then, get a plumber out as soon as possible to repair or replace the sump pump. In either case, the source needs to be addressed before any clean up can begin. And remember, quick response is the key to mitigating, or minimizing, the loss in water damage.

Failure to react swiftly can lead to secondary damage, commonly referred to as moisture damage. Secondary damage is damage that is not caused as a direct result of the primary damage or incident. Primary damage would be wet carpet, drywall, and anything else that came in direct contact with the initial water source. Below are some common causes of secondary damage:

• Typically accompanies a water damage incident that is either extensive or not cleaned up in a timely manner, perhaps one that was undiscovered for an extended time.
• Damage that is caused by improper recovery procedures such as dehumidification that is inadequate to the facility size or rate of evaporation.
• Damage caused by unknown conditions that are either missed or not accessible during the initial assessment phase.
• Damage that is caused by either failure to respond in a timely manner or inability to respond in cases such as buildings under investigation.

QUICK RESPONSE IS THE KEY TO MITIGATING THE LOSS IN WATER DAMAGE.

If the cleanup process does not begin immediately and the water begins to evaporate on its own you can begin to suffer the effects of secondary damage. Eventually the air will have absorbed as much moisture as it can and will become fully saturated. As the evaporation continues, that moisture will have to go somewhere else. That somewhere can be in items such as drywall, ceiling tiles, as well as other levels of the home. Examples of secondary damage include:

• Sheetrock and plaster crack and sag
• Hardwood floors begin to buckle and the finish is damaged
• Vinyl and resilient flooring can release from the floor
• Mold spores can begin to colonize

As you can see, secondary damage can really increase the claims cost. And if the water damage in question is not covered under your insurance policy, this can put a big dent in your wallet.
Below are some more tips you can follow that may help you minimize the amount of damage your house will suffer after water damage.

• Elevate all furniture on aluminum foil to prevent bleeding stain onto the carpet.
• Ventilate wet areas. Turn on the A/C in the summer, and in the winter, alternate opening windows and heating.
• Remove water from flat surfaces by mopping.
• Take up saturated oriental rugs from hardwood flooring.
• Open drawers/doors on furniture for interior drying.
• Remove all artwork, paintings, photographs, and electronics to a safe and dry area.
• Hang draperies and furniture skirting up and away from wet flooring.
• Call Carrara Property Restoration for assistance.

Remember, quick response is the key to minimizing or eliminating secondary damage. Failure to act in a timely fashion will only make things worse.

It does not matter if the piping is made from copper or plastic (PVC), an eighth of an inch crack will allow 250 gallons of water a day to come into the home and wreck flooring, furniture, and other personal property. How can you prevent your pipes from freezing, and what do you do when it occurs? The following tips provide help to answer your questions.

Look in the basement, attic, crawl space, garage, and under kitchen and bathroom cabinets for water pipes not insulated. Hot and cold water pipes require proper insulation, as a hot water line can still freeze if the water is not running through them and the water temperature is cold.

Use a pipe sleeve, heat tape, or other similar material on exposed water pipes. They should be carefully wrapped, with ends butted tightly, and joints wrapped with tape. Seal any area around the pipes, which may allow cold air inside. When severe cold weather arrives, even the smallest amount can cause a pipe to freeze.

Take preventive action by keeping garage doors closed, and opening cabinet doors to allow the warm air to circulate. Keep the thermostat no lower than 55°F and at the same temperature during the day and night. While you are away, if possible, ask a neighbor to check your home periodically to ensure it is warm enough and no pipes have burst.

If you turn on your faucet, and only a trickle of water comes out, you may have a frozen pipe. Keep the faucet open while you attempt to look for the affected area. Apply heat to the section of pipe by using a hair dryer, portable space heater, or by wrapping towels soaked with hot water. Never use electrical appliance around standing water.

Never use a propane, charcoal, kerosene heater, or blowtorch to heat the pipe. The fast boiling water could cause the pipe to explode. In addition, an open flame brings a serious fire hazard as well as carbon monoxide exposure. Apply heat until full water pressure is restored. If the area is inaccessible, do not hesitate to contact a licensed plumber. Think about adding insulation or moving the pipes if the problem continues year out.

When you first purchase your home, you want find out what your flood risk is. You can do this by calling your local emergency management office. Ask to see a flood map of your community to help determine just how much water you could expect in the event of a flood. Remember, you don’t have to live near the water to be at risk. If you find out you live in a flood plain, the next step you should take is to purchase flood insurance. This should be done immediately, seeing as that most policies take 30 days to go into effect. Flood insurance will help reduce the inevitable high cost of restoration after the flood. According to the U.S. Geological Survey, approximately $6 billion in damages are caused by floods every year.

Working from the outside in, it is suggested you have a licensed professional contractor add waterproof veneer to the exterior walls, which will keep shallow water from seeping into your home. The electrical panel, water heater, and furnace should all be elevated and the HVAC system should be raised or flood-proofed to avoid water damage. To prevent flood water from blocking the drains of your home, sewer taps should be installed with appropriate check valves.

It is also wise to get a sump pump. Usually the first place in the house to be flooded is the basement. Basements are usually built below ground level, and this is where the flood waters will naturally converge. Most basements have a sump pit, which is a hole located in the lowest area of the basement to collect water. The sump pit helps by allowing a way for water in the basement to flow out. Be sure to periodically check on the sump pump to make sure it is working. A word to the wise, do not pump the water into the sewer as it could overload your septic system and damage it.

Another major concern will be to move your household inventory to higher places. Start with the small things, such as photo albums, legal documents, and jewelry. Then, if feasible, move the furniture and major appliances like your refrigerator, range, and home entertainment system. Safeguarding what you currently have from flood damage will be more cost-effective than having to buy new furniture and appliances after the flood.

Of course nobody is capable of preventing floods, but as we discussed, there are ways to prepare your home so that flood damage and the consequential expenses of floods can be minimized.